With the Middle East being high on the list of dangerous places to travel these days, we have to rely on imports. When it comes to the cuisine of that sandy land, we have found a reliable stand-in with chef Haim Ohayon’s lunchtime falafel sandwich at Kiki’s. Light, and tenderly deep fried, these garbanzo bean patties are tangy and rich all at once. The sharp cumin pings against the crisp clean flavor of cukes in the Israeli salad also packed into the overpacked pita; the tahini tastes just-made. It might be a while before we can dust off our passports, but it won’t be long before we enjoy another taste of Sinai.
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