At Crozet Pizza, the choice of toppings is vast and includes squash, three types of olives, Portobello and Shiitake mushrooms, eggplant and peanuts. I opt for plain cheese with fresh garlic and a Starr Hill Amber Ale, because the soul of a pizza joint is its crust, cheese and garlic. It’s hot and overwhelmingly fragrant—a bouquet of garlic and oregano. The color of the cheese is a kind of neon rust where it has bubbled up, and elsewhere a deep white flecked with green. Everything is chopped right now—homemade not in the pejorative sense, but in the sense that everything was made in the place where it lives.
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