We’d picked up a raisin pastry at Cannelle Café at an odd time in the afternoon, and now it was 6pm. We were wary about the inappropriateness of this pinwheel creation as an after-work snack—wouldn’t it just be a big shot of sugar?—but our fears were unnecessary. There was depth here, in the dark color of the glaze, the fleshy raisins nestled among folds of buttery dough, and the breadlike structure of the pastry. Evening or no, a pastry can be perfect.
