Beer and salmon? Sure, it wasn’t quite as manly a match as the Memphis ribs our companions were gnawing, but we were just as happy with our pairing of Satan’s Pony and a slab of flaky salmon. Tangy greens made dense piles on either side of the fillet, and crescents of baked squash hid, a trifle bitter, below it. Our favorite part, though, was the pecan crust over the top of the fish; it added a sweet note to every bite. And frankly, looking at our friends’ slimy barbecue hands, we felt positively classy by comparison.
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