You can’t argue with certain foods; they just have charisma. Porterhouse steaks have it; house salads don’t. We went into Casella’s thinking we’d get a slice of pizza, but the charisma of the eggplant parmigiana sub drew us in like a magnet, then justified a spartan presentation. Why would you need a sprig of parsley or a fancy plate for something as assertive as breaded eggplant with a generous smear of tangy tomato sauce and a portion of melted mozzarella that can only be described as ample? Not at all put off by the well-worn dinnerware or the little bag of chips, we submitted gladly to its agenda, then groaned with satisfaction.
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