When summer heat intensifies, many of us are drawn to the water, especially the James River. While hundreds of years ago the James served as a busy shipping route, these days it can be a place of leisure and adventure.
What:
James River Batteau Co.’s Farm to Batteau dinner.
Why:
A chef-prepared meal on the James—amazing!
How it went:
The river washed away the worries of the week.
After a delightful drive through the hills to Scottsville—and one missed turn—I arrived at a private stretch of shore beside the James for a Farm to Batteau event. Several tented areas overlooking the river (and a set of portable restrooms nearby) signaled I was at the right place. Lush green soybean fields surrounded me.
At the tented area, I met Will Smith and Will Cash, who own and operate the James River Batteau Co. Their passion for sharing the history of the boatmen and batteaux of the James is evident and contagious—they built their own batteaux, y’all!
Team Wills oriented me to the space and agenda—the first part of the evening was casual, allowing us to settle in at our own pace, followed by dinner on the boats. While guests relaxed riverside, Two Fire Table’s Chef Sarah Rennie and a helper cooked over an open-grill fire on one of the batteaux. Delicious aromas wafted up to the seating areas arranged higher on the bank overlooking the river. I claimed a spot to watch dragonflies flit about the foliage as the river drifted slowly by. Gazing into the water, I saw a rainbow reflection and realized the passing rains had created an added spectacle for the evening.
Folks trickled in and met the Wills, who enthusiastically answered questions. Guests meandered amongst several displays, including massive hogshead barrels (like those used to transport tobacco historically), and a series of signs. The exhibit is full of stories of those who worked and lived on the river when it was at its peak as an essential commercial shipping route. Boatmen included enslaved men as well as free Black and white men. Their labor was arduous and dangerous, but the profession offered opportunity for some.
Next, we boarded the batteaux, moored at river’s edge. I expected to be roughing it more in terms of seating, but the batteaux have generous bench seats with cushions. Smith assumed his place, guitar in hand, as our bard for the evening at the bow of one of the batteaux. Cash set the tone by sharing a few quotes from boatmen about ending their workdays moored beside the river. The boatmen’s words about the delicious food and joyful music they made after long days of toil hung in the air as Rennie passed us platters of hoecakes with honey butter.
Smith played and sang as we shared food at tables on the two batteaux, and good conversation flowed like the river as we became acquainted. Platter after platter of delicious courses delighted our palates. A standout was the “simple” green bean salad that blended Southern American cuisine, made with locally sourced ingredients, and a little Mediterranean influence with the addition of pancetta. A hummingbird darted in and out of nearby trees, and fish occasionally jumped in the river. After a luxuriously relaxed and sumptuous meal, we returned to shore and the firepits for slices of peach and tomato pies as the flames danced.
Team Wills has several Farm to Batteau events throughout the summer in addition to other dining and cruise offerings. The Farm to Batteau experience, which lasts about two-and-a-half hours and costs $200 per person, is also available for private gatherings.
