Wisdom from the grill
If you’ve visited The Ivy Inn in the last two years, chances are lead line cook Noel Hayden had a hand in preparing and plating your dinner. Hayden began his culinary career at age 14 at Greenwood Gourmet Grocery, and joined The Ivy Inn’s close-knit staff in 2021, training under chef/owner Angelo Vangelopoulos. Hayden is about to take his culinary journey to the next level at Michelin-starred restaurant The Dabney in Washington, D.C.
Hayden is quick to give credit to Vangelopoulos, whose lessons are grounded in a history that includes culinary school, time spent working with a French master chef, and more. Those lessons have contributed to the training of many young chefs—including The Dabney founder Jeremiah Langhorne.
“With Noel, he was so moldable … and he learned really fast, and I’ve probably said it a thousand times now but he’s really good with his hands, and the other things he likes to do [rock climbing] make him have some skill and dexterity which you don’t always get,” says Vangelopoulos.
Passing on wisdom to the next generation and getting young people excited about cooking is how local restaurants that take food seriously—like C&O, Fleurie, and The Ivy Inn—have been able to stand the test of time, says Vangelopoulos. “It’s the perfect time for him to go somewhere new and exciting, and if he wants to continue his culinary journey, there’s maybe no better place for him right now because it will teach him, and wake him up to what’s out there.”
More reasons to eat out
The Monsoon Siam family continues to grow, with the addition of Maple Pine Thai Kitchen on Pantops. The lunch and dinner joint joins Coconut Thai, Pineapples Thai, and the downtown flagship location, making it easier than ever to get your fix of simmering curry and spicy noodles.
With the opening of Al Basha, Iraqi food is officially on the menu at Dairy Market. Owner Omar Al Shaban is serving up family-style, made-from-scratch sandwiches and platters with fillings like chicken shawarma, falafel, and hummous.
Sip on this
After closing its doors in 2008, Oakencroft Farm & Winery is back in business. The farm is committed to environmental conservation, regenerative farming, and solar power. The tasting room is open by reservation, and serves a rotating selection of wines from Virginia and around the world.
Something’s brewing on High Street, and it’s a new venture from restaurateur Will Richey and Reason Beer co-founder Mark Fulton. Högwaller Brewing will fill the vacant space at 1518 E. High St. left by The Pie Chest and Lone Light Coffee, and will eventually produce its own beers, paired with a menu of burgers, barbecue, and more.
Spirit Lab Distilling’s new brew is sure to put a pep in your step. The coffee whiskey is a collaboration with Snowing in Space, and was left in the barrel for an extra year. The amber elixir is stronger than espresso, and pairs perfectly with a scoop of vanilla in an affogato.
A final toast
Recently, we’ve toasted toodle-oo to some favorite eateries. Due to Champion Hospitality Group getting in the financial weeds (see page 22), Passiflora, Champion Brewing Company, Brasserie Saison, and Siren have shuttered their doors. Baccio Mediterranean Cuisine in Crozet fried its last falafel, and after 11 years Meriwether Springs Winery & Brewery has bottled its final bevvies.
