Technically, Carmello’s on Emmet Street serves Northern Italian cuisine, but the family Hedges—Bill, Stella and son George—also serves the kind of authentic cannoli that would make even a scary Sicilian like The Godfather’s Clemenza drop his gun. We sampled one of Carmello’s chocolate-drizzled, ricotta-filled pastries while we chatted with George and Stella about how it is they’ve cultivated one of the most senior restaurants in town—16 years old this May.
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A teen scene for anyone: Stella and George Hedges’ Italian eatery will turn 16 years old this May. |
Stella is quick to describe what she believes is the successful formula: classic dishes made from scratch with imported Italian ingredients. She herself comes in by 11am every day to get all the sauces and soups simmering before dinner commences at 5pm. Also, service is a top priority, say the Hedges, who explain that they’ve garnered quite a following of regulars over the years. “We recognize about 75 percent of our customers by name,” says George. (We suspect it helps name recall that the Hedges have decorated the walls of their establishment with photos of said loyal customers.)
Traditional Italian served in a rustically upscale dining room (like your nonna’s might look) is a recipe for success the world over, but the fact that a little place across the street called the John Paul Jones Arena has folks calling four weeks ahead of an event to ensure a table also helps the Hedges’ bottom line.
“We’re already getting calls for reservations for Bruce Springsteen,” says George.
And now that the UVA Foundation owns the building and the hotel behind it, Carmello’s lease is pretty stable for a while (until, of course, the UVA Goliath decides it needs another Rotunda-esque building for this or that on the site).
Not that Carmello’s isn’t feeling the recession pinch just like everyone else. “We haven’t changed our prices in three or four years,” says Stella, and yet she says the cost of many ingredients has increased exponentially. One measure the Hedges have taken to weather the financial crisis and keep bodies in the seats is to offer, in addition to the extensive regular menu, a $12 “Sunset Menu,” including a choice of several pasta entrees, salad and coffee or tea from 5pm-6pm during the week and from noon to 6pm Sundays. “At these prices, you can’t afford to cook!” says Stella. It’s a great marketing line—but one we find molto more sincere than that of a certain 653-restaurant Italian chain that wants us to believe that when we’re there, “We’re family.”
Speaking of the Olive Garden, several of you were quite irked at our notion last week that some folks around here actually might be pining for one. One reader wrote in to chide us for suggesting that folks have to drive to Lynchburg for the OG’s endless salad and breadsticks when they can get a similar bottomless trough of salad and breadsticks at locally owned Ragazzi’s.
Yet more closings
We might as well make this a regular feature. Two closings to report this week: The Ivy Road location of Java Java has closed (despite reported rumors that it was the Downtown location that would shut down) and the Kluge Estate Farm Shop has ceased kitchen operations except for catered events (fancy cheese and baguettes still available at the shop for impromptu wine picnics).
