This one’s as old as the hills, but feels so fresh among a sea of brownie skillets and crème brûlées: Künefe, the Middle Eastern dessert invented in the 10th century AD, combines layers of shredded phyllo dough with mozzarella cheese, melted in the oven then drizzled with a lemony sugar syrup. At Sultan Kebab, it’s made to order—with a pile of crunchy pistachios on top.