We ate here


Ensconced in a wood-backed booth in The Virginian, we considered lighter fare—a crisp, creamy crabcake sandwich, maybe—but decided that big appetites are the sustaining force behind this social hub. We opted for pure Southern indulgence in the form of a full rack of sweetly smoky ribs in a dollop of homemade barbecue sauce. This is an update on typical fare: a bit hotter, a big smokier.