By Carrie Meslar
The story of Siren is a love story. Maybe not a typical love story, but like many authentic ones, the path that led chef Laura Fonner to open her own restaurant was full of unexpected twists and turns. And some major bombshells.
If you haven’t dined at Siren, located in the former Shebeen Pub & Braai spot on Ridge McIntire Road, you’ve likely heard of Fonner, who won The Food Network series “Guy’s Grocery Games,” hosted by celebrity chef Guy Fieri, and then was the victor on a spinoff of the show that featured a tournament of “Guy’s Grocery Games’” champions. Fonner is not just a name on the local food scene, she’s a seasoned veteran of cooking under the added pressure of cameras, lights, cash prizes, and business partners.
The longtime head of the kitchen at Duners, Fonner seemed to many, including herself, destined to find her happily-ever-after as the eventual owner of the legendary establishment. But a twist of fate found her partnering in a restaurant with an entirely new concept. And then another twist.
“In July of 2022, we suddenly started experiencing money issues,” says Siren’s General Manager Erin McGowan. “Our bank card was being declined, vendors were starting to complain that they hadn’t been paid, etc. … Laura didn’t have access to the bank account and fully trusted that her partner was making sure bills were paid. Siren was a successful restaurant from the day we opened, so it was quite a shock to find out how bad of a place we were in.”
With Siren being a product not just of Fonner’s physical labor, but her emotional energy as well, she vented her frustration in a widely shared social media post last winter. “I know who I am. I know how hard I have fought to keep my dream alive. I know how hard I will continue to fight,” she wrote.
Eventually coming to an agreement with her business partner, Fonner acquired full ownership of the restaurant this spring. And as Siren settles into its second year, the seafood spot with a Mediterranean flair has quickly become a highlight on lists of where to eat in a town.
The menu features not just seasonal fare, but a rotation of dishes rooted in the inspiration Fonner derives from what is fresh and interesting—a quick scroll through the restaurant’s Instagram shows a gallery of specials that arrive and disappear at a rate that is only feasible in a chef-driven environment. There are fan favorites that have remained staples, including the panko-fried oysters (recently featured in C-VILLE), plus clam chowder, shaved beet salad, and eggplant moussaka.
The ambience at Siren is equal parts cozy and airy. Its extensive patio holds the promise of good times on balmy evenings, and the bar offers its own welcoming pocket-sized vibe for those looking for a casual drink or dinner. Monday nights feature live bluegrass and a “gourmet stoner food” menu at the bar. This is particularly noteworthy on a night of the week that can often prove challenging for those looking to eat out.
As dining culture continues to adjust post-pandemic, it seems patrons crave more than just the food: They want to connect with the personalities that make a restaurant successful. Fonner says this current fascination with kitchen life can create a disconnect between chef and customer. “We are real people who have real lives, and I think sometimes customers forget that,” she says. “Sometimes we get dehumanized.”
The professional kitchen has long been a workplace dominated by men, but Fonner looks at the environment as a welcome challenge, and is optimistic about the future. “This industry has gotten better and more accepting to female chefs, and the thought that it doesn’t matter your gender—your drive and your grind is what counts.”
“Laura is unlike any chef I have ever met,” says McGowan. “She’s humble, down to earth, she listens and would rather people ask her questions to make sure things are done correctly the first time versus trying to fix a mistake later.”
As she prepared to participate in a recent out-of-town event, Fonner worked late into the night. “As I was wrapping up prep work at around 2:30am, the song ‘More of You’ by Chris Stapleton came on,” says Fonner, an avid music fan. “This is my love song for food. My food tasted like my love for that song. It was amazing, so amazing I told the story to the guests at the event and got to watch them taste music in my food. It was one of the most special and fulfilling moments ever.”
As she surveys her future in Charlottesville’s dining scene, Fonner has faith in a love story inclusive of her peers. “If you truly know what we have to offer as a culinary community, then you know we are rich in amazing choices of amazing food,” she says.—with additional reporting by Tami Keaveny
