The Bebedero evokes the true flavors of Mexico

Comedian Jim Gaffigan claims that Mexican restaurants seem to take the same combination of ingredients and repackage them under different names. Tortillas, cheese, meat and vegetables, he says, combine to form nachos, tacos, burritos, chimichangas and more. At many so-called Mexican restaurants, this is sadly true, giving Mexican food an undeserved reputation as slop to […]

Could Tavern & Grocery bring back the party brunch?

I have heard it said more than once: Charlottesville is not a brunch town. What? With Blue Moon Diner, Bodo’s, Brookville, Beer Run, Bizou, Bluegrass Grill & Bakery and Brazos Tacos, I don’t even need to leave the B’s to name great brunch spots in town. On the other hand, I do understand the perspective. There […]

Côte-Rôtie champions trying new things

The first time I visited the Côte-Rôtie food truck, I knew it would be at Champion Brewing Company before long. Since opening in 2012, the downtown brewery has become the capital of Charlottesville food trucks, and hosts one almost every night. This is the brainchild of Champion owner Hunter Smith, who had seen the success […]

Passing the torch: Clifton Inn’s first chef rates its newest

Chef-owned establishments aside, the executive chef position at Clifton Inn may be the peak of Charlottesville’s culinary ladder. In the restaurant’s 24-year history, seven chefs have worn the honor, and several went on to own top eateries such as C&O and Maya. The latest is Yannick Fayolle, a bold young chef who in October took […]

Unique pairings: Peter Chang partner James Li puts his own spin on Kyoto

Did you know you that most restaurants let you bring wine to dinner? Though fees and restrictions vary, restaurants will open a guest’s own bottle of wine for a corkage fee. Some higher-end restaurants with sophisticated wine lists limit the practice to special bottles not on their list, while lower-end restaurants impose looser restrictions, if […]

Seafood gem: Public Fish & Oyster charms Virginia’s first lady

I lucked out and married into an oyster family. My wife’s grandfather was a Virginia oysterman, her brother founded a Virginia oyster company and for decades, her family has rung in each November with a spectacular oyster roast. To me, November means oysters. Now that association is official. Under an order by Governor McAuliffe last year, […]

Party on: South Fork food truck reinvents dining at home

I grew up in the dinner party era. Among my favorite childhood memories is falling asleep to the mysterious sounds of my parents’ parties—roars of laughter, clanging glasses and high heels across wooden floors. My parents loved them, too. When preparing for their guests’ arrival, they always floated around the house with a gleam of anticipation. […]

Torch bearer: Bizou carries on great food without the fuss

In the fall of 1993, in a booth at an unassuming new restaurant on Charlottesville’s Downtown Mall, I dug into a plate of rabbit quesadillas. I was floored. “Who puts rabbit in quesadillas?” I thought. “And, how could they taste this good?” In an era when fine dining meant white tablecloths and fussy French cuisine, […]

Speak up: Why chefs want more complaints

I have a bad habit of never complaining at restaurants. Maybe it’s my British heritage. Brits don’t like to draw attention to themselves. When asked, “How is everything?” a Brit could be choking on a poisoned, flaming shard of glass while being pummeled by the bus boy, and would still muster: “Jolly good, thanks.” Why do […]